You put one skin cream on to hydrate, another to tone and a last one to clean or prevent wrinkles. But what are the skin care ingredients you're slathering on your face? Are they safe? Because the skin is a direct line to the bloodstream, it's important to know what you're using. We've listed 12 common skin care ingredients, the risks they may pose and healthful alternatives to try...
From moisturizer to bleaching cream, most women have a bathroom drawer full of lotions and potions designed to make them look youthful and refreshed.
But what’s really in those skin care products? A glance at the confusing, unpronounceable ingredients on labels offers no clues. What are those chemicals, and could they hurt your health?
Women should be careful because the skin is our largest organ, so some chemicals can enter the bloodstream almost instantly.
“It’s important to know what you’re using,” says Margaret Lewin, M.D., clinical assistant professor of medicine at Weill Medical College of Cornell University in New York City, and medical director of Cinergy Health, an insurance benefits provider. “Skin products are medications.”
A one-time application probably won’t harm you, but bad effects can build up after years of exposure, says Lisa Benest, M.D., of Lisa Benest M.D. Skin Care and Laser Center in Los Angeles.
“What you put on your skin plays a role in your overall health,” she says.
So next time you shop for beauty products, read labels carefully and look out for the following 12 skin care ingredients, which some experts believe may be harmful to your health.
1. Skin Care Ingredients: Parabens
This chemical compound is a staple in almost all conventional skin care products, including moisturizers, Benest says. It’s used as a preservative to prevent bacteria and mold growth.
On an ingredient list, parabens appear as methylparaben, propylparaben, ethylparaben or any other word with “paraben.”
Risks when absorbed through skin: Studies show that parabens create mutations in mammal cells, Benest says.
A 2004 study in the Journal of Applied Toxicology found parabens in breast tumors but didn’t show that parabens cause breast cancer.
Healthy skin alternative: Many paraben-free products are available, thanks to public demand. The Environmental Working Group (EWG), a nonprofit research group, suggests Kiss My Face Sunscreen, or check out 365 Everyday Value Body Lotion at Whole Foods.
2. Skin Care Ingredients: Hydrocortisone
Found in anti-inflammatory creams, lotions, gels, sprays or ointments, hydrocortisone temporarily relieves minor skin irritations caused by eczema, insect bites, poison ivy and jewelry with nickel.
It’s the active ingredient in anti-itch products.
Risks when absorbed through skin: Hydrocortisone can thin out skin, Lewin says, so use it sparingly. It also interferes with the natural immune response against infected skin lesions.
If used over large areas and/or with bandages that don’t allow the skin to breathe, “it can be absorbed and suppress the body’s production of the essential [hormone] cortisone,” she says.
Healthy skin alternative: Think pink: Lewin suggests a milder chemical such as calamine lotion for itching. Other skin soothers are Sarna (generic name pramoxine), a topical anesthetic; and Domeboro Powder, an astringent that’s dissolved in water, soaked into a clean cloth and applied as a compress.
3. Skin Care Ingredients: Hydroquinone
This is used in medications to treat sun spots and dark, pigmented scars and burns, says Gloria Campbell D’Hue, M.D., founder of the Atlanta Center of Dermatology and MediSpa.
Risks when absorbed through skin: Hydroquinone is considered safe for short-term use, but frequent side effects include skin irritation and allergic reaction, which may cause more hyperpigmentation, burning and itching, D’Hue says.
“There are no reported cases of skin cancer or internal malignancies related to hydroquinone,” she says. “Nevertheless, the Food and Drug Administration continues to scrutinize hydroquinone preparations.” A dermatologist should monitor your usage if you’re applying strengths higher than 4%, D’Hue advises. And always apply sunscreen if using hydroquinone because it increases sensitivity to the sun.
Healthy skin alternative: Skin creams with Kojic acid (derived from fungi), vitamin C, soy, licorice extract and glycolic acid can bleach discolored areas.
“Natural alternatives aren’t as effective [in removing dark spots], but for mild cases, they’re adequate,” D’Hue says.
4. Skin Care Ingredients: Neomycin
This antibiotic, found in creams and lotions, prevents or treats bacterial skin infections, Lewin says.
Risk when absorbed through skin: Neomycin frequently causes skin irritation, rash and burning, she says.
Don’t smear it over large areas of the body, because neomycin “can be absorbed through broken skin and cause kidney and hearing problems,” she warns.
Healthy skin alternative: Try Bacitracin, an over-the-counter antiseptic that rarely irritates skin, or Betadyne, Lewin says. But avoid the latter if you’re allergic to iodine, she warns.
5. Skin Care Ingredients: Synthetic Fragrances
Phthalates (synthetic fragrances) cling to skin and give products such as perfumes, hair gel and nail polish more staying power, Benest says. They’re also used to mask unpleasant smells in products. This ingredient often is listed as “fragrance” or parfum on labels.
Risk when absorbed through skin: Phthalates affect men’s fertility. They’re linked to lower sperm motility and birth defects in boys’ reproductive systems, Benest says. Synthetic fragrances can also disrupt the body’s endocrine, or hormone, system.
Healthy skin alternative: Go for fragrance-free products or those with scents from essential oils. For example: Trader Joe’s Purify Grapefruit Chamomile Sea Salt Scrub.
6. Skin Care Ingredients: Sodium Lauryl/Laureth Sulfate (SLS)
Love the sudsy action when you wash up? It probably comes from SLS, which acts as a detergent and boosts cleansing and lathering quality in shampoos, body washes and toothpastes, Benest says.
This chemical is often disguised as a coconut derivative or as “comes from coconuts” on the label, Benest says.
Risk when absorbed through skin: Animal studies have shown that SLS damages protein formation in eye tissue of young animals, leading to the possibility of ocular damage in children, Benest says. In one case, SLS was “a major irritant” to cells from a rabbit’s eye, according to a 2009 study published in the Biological and Pharmaceutical Bulletin in Japan.
It may also react with other ingredients to form more toxic chemicals, such as a carcinogen called NDELA (N-nitrosodiethanolamines), she says. SLS may also irritate and damage the natural skin barrier and eat away at hair follicles and impair your hair’s growth.
Healthy skin alternative: It’s hard to avoid.
“Unfortunately, even many ‘natural’ shampoos, toothpastes, soaps and body gels in health food stores contain this ingredient,” Benest says.
Look for labels that say “SLS-free,” such as the one on Tom’s of Maine Natural Toothpaste, or make sure it isn’t listed in product ingredients.
7. Skin Care Ingredients: 1, 4-Dioxane
Dioxane dissolves grease and thickens products, Benest says. It’s frequently found in lotions, creams, toothpastes and shampoos.
Compounds with high concentrations of dioxane include polyethylene glycol (PEG) and ingredients with “myreth,” “laureth” and “ceteareth” as part of the word.
Risk when absorbed through skin: “Dioxane is easily absorbed through the skin and is recognized in California to cause cancer,” Benest warns.
According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), inhaling high levels of 1, 4-dioxane for short periods can cause vertigo, drowsiness and headaches and irritate eyes, nose, throat and lungs. Long-term exposure also damaged the livers and kidneys of rats, according to a 2007 study published in the journal Toxicological Sciences.
Healthy skin alternative: Alba Bath & Shower Gel is dioxane-free.
8. Skin Care Ingredients: Methyl Salicylate
This topical aspirin-like medication, usually combined with menthol, relieves muscle aches and sprains, Lewin says.
Risk when absorbed through skin: It can irritate skin, she says. And if applied in large quantities or on broken skin, methyl salicylate can mimic aspirin’s side effects, including constipation or diarrhea, dizziness, drowsiness or stomach pain.
People allergic to aspirin or are taking prescription blood thinners should avoid products with methyl salicylate, Lewin says.
Healthy skin alternative: Go hot and cold. The National Institutes of Health recommends applying ice during the first 24-72 hours after an injury to reduce pain and inflammation. Afterward, heat may soothe soreness.
9. Skin Care Ingredients: Toluene
This chemical is found in most synthetic fragrances and used in some nail polish, nail products and cuticle treatments, Benest says.
Butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) also contains toluene.
Risk when absorbed through skin: Toluene, made from petroleum, is harmful if swallowed or absorbed through skin. Chronic exposure is linked to anemia, lowered blood cell count, liver or kidney damage and birth defects, Benest says.
Healthy skin alternative: Check out Revlon ColorStay Nail Enamel, which is BHT-free.
10. Skin Care Ingredients: Triclosan
An antibacterial ingredient, Triclosan is found in cleansers, soaps and acne washes, Benest says.
Chlorphenesin is a similar antibacterial compound.
Risk when absorbed through skin: “Triclosan has a chemical structure similar to Agent Orange,” Benest says.
The EPA lists triclosan as a pesticide that’s highly toxic, she says. It’s a suspected cancer-causer and disrupts hormones.
Antibacterial compounds, such as triclosan and chlorphenesin, don’t seem to break down and accumulate in body fat, Benest says.
About 75% of Americans 6 years and older who took part in a 2003-2004 National Health and Nutrition Examination Survey had triclosan in their urine, according to scientists from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC).
Healthy skin alternative: Studies have found that regular soap and water are just as effective as antibacterial wipes and rubs.
11. Skin Care Ingredients: Petrolatum
Petroleum-based ingredients and ointments are derived from crude oil and used for their emollient properties, Benest says.
Mineral jelly; petrolatum amber; petrolatum white; petroleum jelly; yellow petrolatum; mineral grease (petrolatum) and paraffin are all petroleum-based ingredients. It’s common in lipsticks, moisturizers and anti-aging creams.
Risk when absorbed through skin: Petroleum-based ingredients may interfere with the body’s own natural moistening mechanism, Benest says. The EWG says it’s been linked to cancer in government studies conducted by the National Toxicology Program and the EPA.
Healthy skin alternative: Look to nature for simple alternatives, Benest recommends. Olive oil-based products are a safe option. And coconut oil can be applied directly to the skin as a moisturizer and – bonus – it’s a mild antifungal.
12. Skin Care Ingredients: Benzoyl Peroxide
This antiseptic has anti-inflammatory and oxidizing properties used to treat mild to moderate acne, Lewin says.
Risk when absorbed through skin: Use it sparingly: Benzoyl peroxide can cause skin dryness and irritation, Lewin says. The EWG lists it as a high hazard chemical with links to reproductive toxicity at high doses and other health problems.
Avoid sensitive areas around the eyes and mouth. And don’t use benzoyl peroxide with other products that irritate the skin, such as topical alcohol and abrasive skin cleansers, she says.
Healthy skin alternative: Instead, look for over-the-counter acne treatments that include salicylic acid, Lewin says. Check out Oxy products, Noxzema Anti-Acne Gel and Pads, and Stridex.
Another option: Anti-acne products that contain alcohol and acetone, including Tyrosum Liquid Acne Skin Cleanser and Glytone Acne Treatment Toner.
Need more ingredients decoded? Check out the EWG Cosmetic Safety Database. Its website also lists healthier alternatives.
For more information and expert advice, visit our Skin Health Center.
Test Your Skin Cancer IQ
When it comes to your sun safety, is your skin cancer knowledge current or is ignorance bliss? Consider this: Skin cancer is diagnosed more often than all other cancers combined. Have we caught your attention now?
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